Changing the pants from zip front to elastic was the easiest bit. Changing the bum and leg on the pattern was much more challenging. Before I started cutting into the muslin, I searched through the web for tutorials on how to alter the pants pattern for different lumps and bumps for my body. The surprising thing was that, the most useful sites for my body shape were the ones that weren't in English - one in Spanish and one in Russian. I'm not a Spanish nor a Russian speaker! Thank goodness for Google Translate. I was able to figure out what to do.
The pattern comes in Slim, Average and Curvy versions. I cut a size 14 Slim first. I figured that I would try the Slim version first and if that failed, then I would try the Average version.
As I was testing out the muslin, I also discovered more important info about my body shape for future alteration purposes. I apparently have normal size front thighs but thinner back thighs. I have to drastically reduce the back thigh width of the back pattern. I did that by making a big pleat from the bottom of the bum all the way down to the hem of the pants. That is exactly why pants (RTW and previous self-made ones) often have too much bagginess under the bum.
And my back crotch curve is almost a 90 degree angle. Who knew?
Also, I realized that I will have more than 1 pants pattern for non-stretch woven material. The Office trousers will have more ease than the cotton chinos. So I'll have to make another muslin from this pattern for much more fitted pants like chinos.
So here is the final product from different angles:
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| Front |
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| side back |
These are the least baggy non-stretch woven trousers that I have ever owned (RTW or self-made). Of course my stretch woven skinny jeans/knit pants are much more fitted but I have too much non-stretch wool blend fabrics in my stash that I need to use.
Now that I have figured out the bum and upper thigh situation with these tapered pants, I can just change the pant leg width from the knee down to make straight leg pants and boot cut pants. May be one day I'll change the elastic waistband back to a zip front waistband!
The review of the pattern is on PatternReview.
Love the fit!! I'm going to try my hand at pants next month
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comment! I look forward to seeing your pants next month!
DeleteThese pants look perfect! I have similar fitting issues so this was very helpful - especially the crotch curve. Many thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks Maggie! Pants can be so hard to fit because of all the different curves involved. Much more difficult than fitting tops!
DeleteThese pants look perfect! I have similar fitting issues so this was very helpful - especially the crotch curve. Many thanks!
ReplyDeleteExcellent job - one would think a close fit would show figure flaws but it's really just the opposite - at least that's what I've found with my own clothing.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jenny! I think people sometimes confuse 'fitted' with 'tight'. Tight is definitely not good for my lumps and bumps! ;-)
DeleteYou have hit a home run with these pants. I'd say you have nail the fit perfectly.
ReplyDeleteThanks Linda! I think I may perhaps have to refit it for a thicker material like corduroy. Nonetheless, I'm happy to have solved the age old mystery of the bagginess of my pants!
DeleteThese look great - nicely fitted and flattering. Interesting about your crotch curve - I have to do the opposite and add a lot in that area! Taking out leg width at the back for flat bottoms and thinner legs is also recommended by , I think, Palmer and Pletsch.
ReplyDeleteThanks Sarah Liz! I need to go to the library to find that Palmer and Pletsch book!
DeleteGorgeous pants! The fit is perfect and I enjoyed reading your notes describing your process. :)
ReplyDeleteThanks Lisa! Fitting oneself is always challenging. I had to take many many picture of my bum with the muslin and had to awkwardly pin out the back thigh and crotch. It would have been so much easier to have another person help with the fitting at the back! Thank goodness it all worked on in the end.
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